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Hiking permits are also required and can be obtained through the Bureau of Land Management (BLM.)
Besides being easier to get a hiking permit South Coyote Buttes has much to offer. The formations are not as large as THE WAVE however what they lack in size they make up for in variety and number. South Coyote Buttes is spread out more and the interesting formations are scattered making it more interesting to explore. It requires more effort to get the rewards that this area has to offer. The first challenge after getting a hiking permit is planning what to see and from what trailhead.
Hiking in this permit area is different that of North Coyote Buttes. There is not the main focal point like “The Wave” that attracts people from all over the world. It is more distant to get to and more challenging to see. But, the treasurers that are hidden there are worth the effort. The “Paw Hole” region is the easiest to reach and can be hiked to from just off the House Rock Valley Road. Both the Paw Hole buttes and the group of buttes a short distance to the north which has been called “Sunset Buttes” can be explored in one day with evening light being the best for photography.
Another difference between North and South Coyote Buttes is what you will be hiking on. Most of the hiking in South Coyote Buttes is done on sand. It is not sand dune type hiking but, sandy slopes that has vegetation on it which makes the hiking stable. As one hikes through the formations there are patches of slickrock to walk on and across, however most features are separated by the sandy areas just described. There are a number of terraces with formations on them and as one travels farther from the trailhead you will be lower and lower so the hike back is a gradual slope up. Since there is no one amazing formation, like The Wave in the North, that demands all of the attention it makes the experience more of discovery. The book “Beyond the Sands” describes in detail, places and their locations and will provide maps to help in finding many formations. It is the only book available that will give you inside information about the many formations worth hiking to in South Coyote Buttes.
There are three trailheads used to hike to South Coyote Buttes: Lone Tree Trailhead which is located just off House Rock Valley Road on BLM 1079, Paw Hole Trailhead which is about 2.5 miles further out on BLM 1079, and Cottonwood Cove Trailhead which is at the end of a connecting set of roads. Getting to the main section of South Coyote Buttes or the Cottonwood Cove trailhead can be challenging. While the shortest route is via the road from the Lone Tree trailhead (BLM 1079) it is not the easiest or quickest. The BLM has maps which include the road numbers or you can get one here.
For those who are not driving a high clearance vehicle and wish only to visit the Paw Hole region of South Coyote Buttes, parking at the Lone Tree Trailhead and walking up the road to this section is about the only safe way to see some of South Coyote Buttes. Those who have a four-wheel drive vehicle can shorten their hike to the Paw Hole region by driving the 2.5 miles to the Paw Hole Trailhead. This road has some grades, is sandy, and can be a bit difficult to drive but, the bedrock outcrops are relatively minor and the deep sand is minimal to the Paw Hole Trailhead. Once leaving the Paw Hole Trailhead things change almost immediately. The sand gets deeper and one will encounter a long uphill segment of very deep sand. Recently the BLM has posted BLM 1079 at the Paw Hole Trailhead as a one way road so heading east from this trailhead would be going the wrong way. Continuing this way is very risky because of the uphill grade and deep sand. At the end of which is a bedrock outcrop that has challenging rock to negotiate, while trying to continue out of the deep sand. There are a couple of other rock outcrops that require skill to maneuver around. Once the grades have leveled off and the road gradually slopes downward the worst is over, and mostly deep sand is the remaining challenge.
The better way to reach the Cottonwood Cove Trailhead is to travel south on House Rock Valley Road an additional 3.75 miles to the intersection of House Rock Valley Road and BLM 1017, also known as Pine Tree Road. After following this well maintained gravel road for about 3 miles, one will come to an intersection where BLM 1066 turns off to the left (northeast.) Following this road will be easier with sandy conditions, watch for occasional deeper sandy spots requiring some momentum and rocky outcrops that only require slowing down to cross. Shortly after passing through a gate which is at a place called Red Pocket the road is joined by BLM 1080 and becomes BLM 1081.
First gate encountered at a place called “Red Pocket” Deep sand after gate at “Red Pocket”
Note: When passing through the gate it is best to move your vehicle past the gate 15 yards (meters) to climb a slight rise before stopping to close the gate. On my previous trips stopping at the gate will require four-wheel drive to get moving again up the deep sand on the rise.
After about 3 miles on BLM 1081 there will an intersection turning left (Northwest); turn here and it will bring one to the old buildings of Poverty Flat. Around the buildings and past the well, the road will continue mostly North. This road parallels BLM 1082 which is only a couple of yards (meters) to the West. They join in a short distance and drop slightly down to a gate.
Second gate 1 mile from trailhead Remember to close all gates behind you
Once passing through the gate there will be a sign about the hiking permit for the South Coyote Buttes, and the Trailhead is a mile from the gate. This set of roads are smoother, have less grade issues, deep sand only in patches, and the rocky outcrops are minor compared to the ones on BLM 1079 from Paw Hole. The biggest challenge on these roads is the ridge of sand between the tire tracks. Lower clearance vehicles will not only have sand to drive on but will push sand in the middle. Trying to ride on the ridge of sand in the middle is impossible, because the road is a single track with brush on both sides.
My latest experience was to drive out on BLM 1017,1066, 1081, and finally on 1082 and returned via BLM 1079 past Paw Hole. It took about the same amount of time to drive down around and back up to the trailhead as it did to cut across to the Paw Hole region.
I hope this helps those wishing to drive to Cottonwood Cove Trailhead.
There are many places to camp along the track to Cottonwood Cove trailhead. Some camp right at the trailhead but parking is limited and your solitude may be interrupted if camping there. I recommend camping just a tenth of a mile prior to the trailhead. This area provides great views of the hiking area and the vistas to the east. Hiking to the buttes to the northeast is also easy from this point. “The Chess Queen” is located in these formations, a pinnacle which is worth hiking to. This area is best visited in the mid-day to afternoon hours because of its positioning which slopes to the northwest. One can easily spend an hour or so exploring this fun little area.
When to see South Coyote Buttes and enjoy ultimate solitude: My trips to both North and South Coyote Buttes has been in the late fall (October/November) and early spring (February/March.) While camping can be a bit cold at night the days are very pleasant. Car camping allows for more blankets and if things get really cold the car’s heater can really make the trip nice. Camping is not allowed within the permit area, but outside the boundary it is just fine. On one occasion I backpacked around to the north boundary of South Coyote Buttes and camped outside the boundary. With permit in hand it allowed for beautiful evening and dawn photos and the added experience of listening to the music of coyotes and owls in pre-dawn light.
Also check what North Coyote Buttes has to offer by purchasing Beyond The”Waves” as well as reading the page about what there is to see including the Wave.
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