Some who get hiking permits, are unfamiliar with the region and may have trouble finding their way in areas without established trails, may wish to hire a guide which will provide good transportation to the trailhead and excellent guidance to The Wave. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) has approved a number of guide service companies click here for some that I would recommend. An approved guide will not count towards the number of hiking permits you need.
The following pages explain in detail the places to see and hike through which will guarantee that you will get the most out of your hard to obtain hiking permit to see THE WAVE.
TO PURCHASE THE BOOK THAT SHARES IT ALL WITHIN NORTH COYOTE BUTTES AND MORE! Click Here
Preparation:
The hike to the Wave as explained in the BLM literature is about 6 miles round trip 2 miles on relative flat gravel wash bed and about 1 mile of sandy walking with the rest being slick rock walking. Only the last hundred yards is rather steep into the Wave proper.
North Coyote Buttes is an area of about 1600 acres and measures about three miles long by about one mile wide. The Wave is only a small area half the size of a football field tucked into about the center of this area. It is possible to see and hike through most of North Coyote Buttes in a single day however, it takes planning your route and moving along at a good pace. To really hike to the far reaches and see most of what the area offers will require hiking about 15 miles. In the following pages and photo maps I will describe the hike that I have done twice and what amazing things you can see in North Coyote Buttes while also visiting the Wave twice during the day. My hiking trips were both done during the shorter days in early October and February. Leaving the trail-head at 7:30 and returning about 12 hours later when the sky is just getting dark enough to maybe need a flashlight. Bringing extra water and food is a must. This hike is lengthy and requires good hiking skills and preparation. I was extremely lucky to obtain the necessary hiking permits to explore and capture all of the photos for this website and the Beyond The “Waves” it was over a 5 year period hiking alone and was 8 years ago. The popularity has skyrocketed making the possibility of doing today what I did back then extremely remote. purchasing the book above maybe the only way you might get to see the formations within this wonderful permit area. even still good luck to all who try to see it in person..
Using the information below does not guarantee not becoming lost. All users do so at their own risk.
The adventure begins after following the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) route guide to the formation called Twin Buttes. (Refer to the photo-map below.) Here the BLM route crosses along the base of an area of formations that are worthy of exploration I call the area “White Castle” because of the white topped buttes in the area. Rather than continuing along the BLM route which crosses the relatively flat slick rock stay to the right near the steeper buttes and enter the valley to the west (right) of the flat rock. Staying to the right one will find highly banded sandstone buttes occupying the skyline to the right these hide the “pool cove” an area which occasionally has water in a pool that can reflect the surround buttes making for interesting photographs. This cove can be explored easily, to the right one can climb up to the bright white “brain rock” which rests on a high shoulder over looking the Twin Buttes of the BLM route below. To the left one can climb up to a saddle that overlooks the Bull Pasture that was crossed on the BLM route prior to reaching the slickrock portion of the hike to the Wave.
Once this little area is viewed one can climb up to the southwest or right if standing at the pool and looking toward the open valley. The route is steeper here but many options exist. About three-fourths the way up one will come to a little oasis of plant life in a shallow shelf. From here continue climbing up the now pastel striped sandstone to the area described as the “Raven’s Hollow.”
Here wonderful views of the hike to the Wave, of WirePass, and the upper Buckskin slot canyon can be enjoyed. To the left of the hollow on the steep slope one can see the perched image of the Raven. To the right is the formation I call the Pastel Wave. Turning around and looking below is the White Castle valley and the “Brain Rock Butte.” There is much to see in the Raven’s Hollow. Plant life has taken advantage of the increased soil and water and grows well in this protected spot. One can hike over to “the Raven” and find that from the opposite side it looks like it is taking flight.
After exploring the “Hollow” return the way you came down to the plant oasis and then turn right hiking over to the Brain Rock Butte. This too can be explored. Keep in mind your time and plan on arriving at the Wave just before noon. After the Brain Rock Butte continue to circle right around the slope until you are south of the brain rock the slope to the south is interesting for its long straight banding that 
reminds me of the belly of the blue whale or a stripped series of highways. This area can also be explored and wonderful photo opportunities abound. Continue to drop down and to the right and circle around other interesting buttes, there is one spot that has a minature “Wave” that is worth checking out. Soon you will drop out on to the flat slick rock which is where the BLM route to the Wave is. You have now explored White Castle.
From the White Castle side trip we return to the BLM route description until you pass (on your right) a large pointed rock that is up on the steep sandstone slope of the Sand Cove canyon. I call this rock the “Sundail” because well, it looks like a sundial, and because of its uniquely sharp form which is in contrast to the more weathered rock everywhere around you. Here you will notice a gradually sloping shelf drifting to the right of the obvious trail toward the “Dark Slot” which guides you to the Wave. Follow this gradual shelf. If you are interested in the dinosaur track(s) it is along this route. The gps coordinates for the dinosaur tracks (as found on the internet) are 36°59.860 N; 112°00.650 W.
We are heading to the “Boneyard” made famous by the photo by Micheal Fatali. 
Continue on this shelf until it ends with small mounds or buttes that make up the northern wall of Sand Cove. Here you will find a long curl of stone which I call the “Surfers Curl.” At the upper end of the curl is a wonderful swirling spot on the stone that reminds me of an eye of a storm. From this point one can take one of two routes. Staying to the right and crossing over a small saddle you will have arrived in the “Boneyard.” Turning to the left there will be a small arch and after crossing over the saddle here you will see a butte with a beautiful pattern of yellow sandstone across a red sandstone field. The patterns remind me of the beautiful written Arabic language and I call this “Writings of Aladdin.” From this butte one can turn right and cross over into Sand Cove doing so and continuing to stay to the right one will reach the “Boneyard.”
Once at the area called “the Boneyard” which is a gradually sloping area strewn with the “bones” of a much harder sandstone weathered into a fascinating shapes, notice the one larger rock perched on a short pedestal it looks like a model ship this is labeled on the map as the “Model Destroyer”. The striped sandstone in Fatali’s photo is to the West, closer to the very steep red cliffs. After exploring the area drop down into the wash at the bottom and follow it to Sand Cove Wash then turn right and walk up the main wash. The buttes to the left are the buttes often photographed in Sand Cove.
big view map photo The Boneyard map photo
Once upstream of them they appear in their full wonder with the swirling stripes of the wash bottom and the buttes themselves. This is the features of Sand Cove. (Called Swirling Sand Cove in Beyond The “Waves.”) Just above these buttes we climb up to the very colorful banded stone of what I call Rainbow Stone, the colors are just amazing, check it out!!! Now we turn and face the buttes in Sand Cove we will need to drop a bit and circle around to the right passing the sand cove buttes on the right.
We will be looking off to the north northeast our goal is to head for the brightly colored formation that looks to some like a wedding cake and to others like a church with a steeple. For simplicity I will call it Chapel Rock. Pick the route around this area based on your abilities. Once at the chapel rock stay to the right and continue around staying along the steep face of the slick rock. It will circle around to the east and you will be at the BLM route as it enters the Wave.
Before you enter the Wave, notice the separated butte of saturated color to the left and down the sandy area a short distance, this formation is the “Neon Buttes.” If you have arrived before noon, check these formations out before returning to enter into The Wave they are simple to reach and have the most intense colors of the area. Now enjoy the exploration of The Wave with its three connecting ravines, to the right a very narrow passage which will take you back to the chapel rock formation we passed earlier. Hike up through the wider ravine which is divided in two, on the right being the classic vantage point showing off The Wave in all it splendor. The left side also has interesting lines that give a different feel for the whole area. Be sure to take a photo from its most recognizable spot. Enjoy all that you have done thus far to see the Wave and North Coyote Buttes. Soak in the beauty and prepare to move on we will return to the Wave later in the day. From facing the classic view of The Wave turn right and hike over to the “Brain Rock Garden” that is directly to the north of the Wave. Take a few moments to hop across the “brains.” From the far (north) edge of this area you can look down onto “Neon Buttes” and can see the BLM route stretching off to the north back to White Castle and Twin Buttes. From this point the trail back looks like a vast distance but it isn’t as bad as it might appear.
Return back off the Brain rocks to begin your hike to Royal Crown Buttes. After leaving the Brain Rocks turn left and continue around the point of the towering Top Rock formation climbing a bit as you go. There are some small mounds/buttes that make up the northeastern tip of the Top Rock prominence Stay to the right of the highest one and hike up to the saddle between it and the sloping wall to the right. From this vantage point you should be able to see the North Teepee’s and possibly the South Teepees across the brush covered sand dunes. At this point there are two options to reach Royal Crown Buttes our next destination.
For the less adventurous hiker: Drop down the back side of the saddle down until a safe route is found to the right which will head along the eastern slope of the Top Rock prominence.
This will be a relatively flat sandstone shelf above the sandy desert. As you proceed towards the south you will see, a short way off, a definite break (open mini-valley) in the Top Rock that allows pine trees to grow. Directly in front of you at a point where the “mini-valley” reaches the shelf will be the smaller buttes of the Royal Crown Butte area.
Simply hike to them. Upon reaching the first and larger butte which is situated below the shelf of smaller buttes you will have reached the “Royal Crown” hiking around to the west side or upper side you will see the best angle of the formation. This view is what is on the front cover of my book Beyond The “Waves”. Great views of the Teepee’s and the open range of Paria Plateau can be enjoyed.
For the more adventurous explorer: 
beginning at the saddle turn right and using the cross bedding of the ancient dunes work your way to the top of Top Rock. Great care should be exercised up this route it is steep and has sharp drop off’s on both sides which grow narrower at the top. Once the slope levels off you will pass around some mounds and a little further you will come upon the Top Rock Arch which sits to the right or west and is perched at the edge of the cliff over looking the Wave, and a view of all that we have hiked through thus far. Continuing on you will come out on to a much wider area that is the Top Rock. Here again two choices will present itself. You will be standing in a wide open saddle with a bowel to the left, a raised plateau in front of you with a wide shoulder slightly to the right and the cliff edge to the immediate right. Going right will be described later as it takes you back to the Wave. If you go left you will drop down the right side of the bowl and come out on a sand and rocky shelf that over looks the area called Pothole Patio or Dinosaur Dance floor. Just beyond the Pothole Patio and to the left is the Royal Crown Buttes our next destination. At the top of a ledge along this route there will be the top of a sand dune it can be used to cross the ledge and drop to the broken land before the Pothole Patio. Once at the Patio turn left out to the eastern edge and hike to the main butte which is just off the edge of this rather flat shelf. That is the Royal Crown which is on the front cover of my book Beyond The “Waves”. And also provides an excellent view of the Teepee’s and the Paria Plateau.
If you choose to go right at the wide saddle (described above) circle around the raised plateau and follow it around to the alcove named Sand Dune Alcove. It is worth hiking into the alcove and seeing the way wind has carved the stone on the right side of the alcove and then deposited in the left side as a dune. Once leaving the alcove the next stop is to find Melody Arch. Circle up and left of the alcove up on to the mounds of this part of the Top Rock search the gullies and you will find the arch down in one along the eastern edge of the top area. Climbing down to the arch requires a little back tracking and scrambling from one gully to another. It is well worth the effort. Return the way you came and drop back down the wide open white flat of the Top Rock south of the Sand Dune Alcove. From here drop down the gradual slope into the “mini-valley” with numerous pine trees circling to the left. As you round the raised area that held Melody Arch you will see at the mouth of this “mini-valley” the group of smaller buttes on a raised side of the valley which are the Royal Crown Buttes. Below these buttes and to the left is a larger one that is the Royal Crown. 
Head for this butte. Just before you reach it you will come out on a relatively flat gray-white area know as Pothole Patio or Dinosaur Dance Floor cross it and you will see the best angle of Royal Crown which is on the front cover of my book Beyond The “Waves”. Also great views of the Teepee’s and Paria Plateau can be enjoyed.
Now that the options have been laid out and regardless of the route you have taken, we have arrived at Royal Crown Butte. Next is a short hike to see the Oversized Hamburger. This formation is located a short way off southeast of the base of Royal Crown Butte. From that point cross around the sloped wall to the right (southward) and you will come to a flat shelf with the amazing formation that resembles a very large hamburger. I found it is easier to skirt the sloped wall down slightly and then climb to the shelf from the east. From all angles the “burger” is easily envisioned. Walk around it and see for yourself, return to Royal Crown Butte the way you came. Back at the base of Royal Crown Buttes climb up slope along a very brightly colored wall and climb up on the flat wash of the shallow valley. The buttes to the left is next on our agenda. Walking up the sandy wash you will pass, on your left, a butte that resembles a Chinaman hat or a spinning top. Climb up around this formation and gain the next flat shelf. Once here you can explore the Royal Crown Buttes. Great views of the Teepee’s and this corner of the Paria Plateau surround you. I have even been able to call out on a cell phone from the eastern edge of this group of buttes. If you have arrived here near lunchtime (11:30-1:00) you have been keeping a pace that will allow you to see all of what will be described here.
Once ready to move on, head to the southwest corner of 
these buttes and head south up the slope to the Top Rock above. There are many choices here so take what feels best for you. As you climb a small orange pinnacle will appear, head for this landmark. When you reach it you will have made it to the Top Rock which is a large area of petrified sand dunes that are a light tan/white color. At this point evaluate your strength and time. One of the options here will be much longer and take more time that the other.
I will first describe the shorter route, the Top Rock Cut-off Route.” From the orange pinnacle turn right (westerly) and hike over the petrified dunes gaining some elevation as you go, keep the valley with the pine trees visible on your right. A keen eye will spot the arch I’ve named “Bareliun Arch” if you are not careful you will walk right over it and not see it.
It has a span of about 7 feet. See if you can find it and send me a picture. Continue on and a single pine tree will appear ahead of you aim for that tree. A short way further you will come to a spot I call the “scrap yard” the twisted black mineral rich sandstone reminds me a rusting scrap iron. Once at the single pine enjoy the shade and then continue a bit further west you will approach a small black pothole with a grotesque black formation on its right (north) side. I call the spot the “alter of sacrifice” and “blood lake.” 
From the alter head more northwest over the mounds that look more like “brain rock” and watch for a deep pothole I call “The Well.” At this point you have reached the connection with the long route which I will now describe.
The Outer Buttes Route: From the “Orange Duck head” head south southeast (left) through a patch of grotesquely eroded rock and on to a shallow basin that drains off to the northeast. Continue mostly south over a series of mounds and basins all that drain off the Top Rock to the east. At a point on top of one of these mound like ridges the views of the southern end of North Coyote Buttes will open before you.
To your right will be a elephant like formation watch for it. In front of you is a large basin which drops down into a cove that extends down to the sandy desert floor. Before going right and circling around to the basin, take the time to go left and hike southeasterly through the mounds of rock out to the larger buttes at the south eastern tip of the Top Rock massif. The view from above is stunning with the desert spreading out before you. Return and head for the large shallow basin. Our goal is to hike to the south edge where a group of large buttes (in the upper left in photo below marked Outer Buttes) stand in a sea of rock.
As you circle around to the right if you stay higher in the shallow basin you
will reach pinnacle that has thousands of small holes in its stone. Looking like a bee hotel it is worth the visit. Cross over the basin traveling south southeast to the taller buttes. Upon reaching these buttes walk up the half pipe formation to its beginning. Here you will have a grand view of South Coyote Buttes and of the land between the two permit areas. You will have great views down the half pipe out to the southeast tip of the top rock and of both the South and North Teepees.
Moving along drop out of the half pipe and turn left and strike out across the basin gaining some elevation as you move along. Remain near the higher buttes on the left, soon you will crest the rise and see the beautifully lined erosion of an area I call Solitude Park.
This area is about as remote as you can get in North Coyote Buttes. The peace here is wonderful. To the south is the uniquely shaped Pyramid of white and pinkish stone. Unlike most of the buttes here this formation can be climbed. To the north up on the side of the “park” are some small rock formations that I call the Spectators. Work your way to them and just beyond will be the Alien.
From here head west and begin to drop down and to the right keeping the higher buttes on your right. This area has more color in the stone than the Top Rock. The route now begins to swing northward as we walk along the undulating stone. We will have fine views of the upper part of Sand Cove and a hint of the valley beyond which is House Rock Valley where the road is. As we head mostly north now we will begin to gain elevation and the shelf that we have been hiking will turn toward the interior of the top rock and white buttes will terminate the shelf. Follow the shallow basin up and to the right. As the view opens up look for a lone pine tree to the right. Also before reaching the pine tree one can watch for “The Well” a deep pothole in the dunes of the top rock. We have now connected to where the shorter cut-off route described earlier ends. Those taking the longer route may want to check out the “Blood Lake and Alter of Sacrifice” before continuing on. Alien Rock to The Well
At this point there are a number of larger white buttes that populate the slope to the north. Hike north to the end of the shallow valley we just came up before going to “The Well” from this area one can look down the shallow valley to the east that has pine trees in it to Royal Crown Buttes, to the left of this valley there is some higher stone where Melody arch is hidden and the Sand Dune Alcove which occupies the north (left) end of this area will come into view. If energy and time are lacking one can work their way through these buttes heading north and down on to the open slick rock continue north, and after awhile the Sand Dune Alcove will appear to the right or northeast. The route described on this page will connect up at the left of Sand Dune Alcove. Our route goes westerly through the white buttes and then turns north and comes out to the northern edge of the buttes where a commanding view of the Swirling Sand Cove and the Rainbow Stone as well as the Boneyard can be enjoyed. We begin by crossing some undulating stone watching for a lone pinion pine tree. The Well to The Twins
Passing the lone pine tree on the right and following the depression to the north one reaches the view described above. One can drop down the slope here and out on to the flat slick rock. Out on the edge to the northwest are two beehive shaped buttes I call “The Twins” they are left of a yellow alcove both can be hiked to and around. Once having explored this area climb east northeast back up on to the wide slick rock area, you will be facing towards the Sand Dune Alcove, it is worth seeing up close and inside especially the east side.
The two photos above one the left give the route visually with the top one showing the lone pinion pine tree, and the lower one showing the “Twins” and the yellow alcove in the shadow (circled) on photo. The photo on the right shows a closer image with Sand Dune Alcove on the far right edge and “The Twins” on the far left edge. The photo below shows “The Twins” (on the edge of the yellow and white rock) perched above”Swirling Sand Cove” on the left, the view from this point is invigorating!
Now the route heads north and begins to drop down the slope. Below the Wave and the area I call Inner Buttes come into view. To the right the slick rock wraps around behind the higher rock which hold the Sand Dune Alcove and sweeps east with the sheer cliff face on the left which is where the “Dark Slot” is located as identified in the BLM hiking guide. Our goal is to climb down the rock to the west or left staying on the easier cross bedded sand stone. Initially walk to the left making your way down the increasingly steepening stone. There will be a lone pinnacle off to the right
and to the left and lower watch for two large pinnacle/buttes. The route will go down between these two buttes. Once through these two formations stay to the left and pick your way down the slope. About half way from the two buttes to the easier sloped stone below, one will come to a large band of stone that does not have useful cross bedded ledges.
At this point one can scramble down the 8-14 foot slope using hands and feet or could slide down it. I have not explored going to the right but there is a slanting cross bed that may allow for easy walking down past this band of smooth sandstone. From this point the slope levels out and is easy walking. 
At this point facing down the slope to the left is the Second Wave and to the right is the area of the Wave.
Also to the right is a small formation that resembles a hamburger some call it Big Mac and it is worth a photo. From here head north northeast through the numerous formations and you will reach the Wave for the second time in one day. Now with lower afternoon light it will have shadows that can add to the experience and the photos. Once you leave the lower end of the Wave you will need to follow the directions from the BLM back to the trail head. After dropping down into the wash and hiking across the sand to the slickrock beyond you will be approaching Twin Buttes and where we left the BLM described route earlier in the day.
On my travels I have hiked back through here with the sun below the horizon and the evening light racing up the slopes to the East. I usually reach the trail head as the color fades out of the surroundings. It is a peaceful time. Exhausted but, exhilarated at seeing most of what North Coyote Buttes has to offer.
Happy Trekking!!!
The book Beyond The “Waves” has the most information about North Coyote Buttes currently available.
I have been asked by a number of people if I can suggest other places to hike if they don’t get a hiking permit to the Wave. So I thought I would share here more about the Teepee’s that flank the hiking permit area for North Coyote Buttes.
Getting there is I guess the biggest challenge since the permit area is not fenced and it is actively monitored for those who do not have hiking permits. So parking at the Wire Pass trailhead is where to start. There are hiking permits for hiking in Buckskin Gulch area but, I am not sure that hiking areas that are neither in North Coyote Buttes hiking area or Buckskin Gulch requires a hiking permit. To avoid a warning for parking and not paying for a permit of some kind I suggest that you pay for a permit to hike into the gulch. One thing for sure you do start down Coyote Wash aka Wire Pass for about a mile until you reach the trail to the Wave that leaves the wash.
If you are headed for the Teepee’s you will also leave the wash on the trail to the Wave. There is a sign that indicates that the permit area is ½ mile past the sign. Hiking beyond that point requires the hiking permit.
The easiest way to identify the hiking permit area is to identify the general main ridge or steeper areas along the ridge. The upcoming map will give better details as to the approximate boundary along the north and east side of the permit area.
On my visits to the Wave I have been amazed at how many people hike straight into the Wave, sit for a few minutes maybe explore a little of the area immediately to the south or above the Wave and then return back to the trailhead following the same route in which they entered. Now I understand that many have poor senses of direction and so deviating from the instructions provided by the BLM can be a mistake that may result in a much longer hike. It just seems sad that after all that was done to obtain a permit they only experience such a small part of what North Coyote Buttes has to offer.
On one occasion I was hiking in and I met a couple, on their way back out, at the Twin Buttes formation. It was 10am I was appalled that they had already been to the Wave and now felt that there was nothing left to see and so were returning to their vehicle. Since this was a winter trip they had to have started in the dark, they saw the Wave in shadow, and was half way back before the full strength of the sun had illuminated the striking formations of North Coyote Butte and adjoining areas. As we parted ways, I over heard the woman say “maybe we should have brought a camera.” Wow! I was shocked to hear of those who come and not capture a few images of this amazing place. I didn’t see a permit hanging from their pack so maybe they didn’t get one and was just sneaking in for a quick look who knows.
Some people do explore a little more around the Wave and reach the Second Wave as well as the Brain Rock garden next to the Wave. Some drop down into the Sand Cove area and hike through it on their way back to the main route out to the trailhead. Even less climb up the slick rock to discover the Top Rock Arch, Melody Arch, or the Sand Dune Alcove. This does require a little more skill in hiking the steep sandstone to reach these formation but, with a little perseverance one can enjoy all that the Top Rock has to offer. Past these landmarks the rest of the Top Rock region is virtually un-explored.
